2002 SF to the Pacific Northwest

From the Log of Safari-
Transit from SFYC to the Pacific Northwest

Saturday, May 11, 2002 SAFARI departed SFYC at 1:45 p.m. as planned (The plan was to depart on Monday, May 6, weather permitting. Well, the weather didn't permit and we didn't depart). After ten days of gale force winds (40+knot wind and 13 to 15 foot waves) along the Northern California coast finally abated, a more favorable forecast gave hope for a more pleasant passage. The crew (Hal McCormack, Jerry Eaton, Gay and Wyman Harris) being of good spirit and ready for adventure on the high seas proceeded around the clock and arrived at our destination, Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, Washington, traversing some 800 nautical miles in 75 hours including two fuel stops. On Saturday, winds built from 10 to 15 during the day to 20 to 25 in the afternoon and evening then eased during the night and throughout the next day.

Sunday, May 12-pulled into Crescent City, CA for fuel at 1:45 (24 hours, 279 nautical miles and 591 gallons of diesel). Light winds and small seas prompted us to pick up speed to 15 knots for the next 24 hours though increased fuel consumption forced us to stop for fuel at Astoria, OR 14miles up the Columbia River on Monday afternoon. No problem at the infamous
Columbia River bar.

Monday, May 13-after refueling in Astoria the port engine wouldn't start. A call to Cummins Northwest in Portland helped us isolate the problem to the start button solenoid. A jump across the button started the engine and solved the problem. Since we couldn't replicate the problem we canceled a service call scheduled for the next morning and headed down the river and out to sea once again.

Tuesday, May 14-heavy rain and wind during the night but shortly after sunrise we rounded Cape Flattery and entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca ona strong ebb with 15 to 20 knot winds that built 8 to 10 foot swells. The big following seas made for an exciting roller coaster ride requiring alternating engine power to maintain course while surfing down the waves. After 4 or 5 hours the tide turned, the seas flattened and we entered our cruising ground 72 hours after departure. By 5:00 p.m. we were in a slip at Roche Harbor.

Wednesday, May 15-cleaned the boat, said good-bye to Hal McCormack and welcomed Karen Eaton who had traveled by taxi, plane, shuttle, rental car and ferry to join us. As she came aboard we started the engines and moved to a quiet anchorage across Roche Harbor.

Thursday, May 16-moved to anchor at Reid Cove at Stuart Island where we hiked, picked oysters and counted our blessings.

Friday, May 17-moved to Friday Harbor Marina, San Juan Island for poking around town. Restaurant meal at Vinnie's with a nice view of the harbor.Saturday, May 18, 2002-put Jerry and Karen Eaton on the ferry to Sidney, BC and moved to anchor at Indian Cove at Shaw Island where Gay and I spent aquiet sunny afternoon all alone contemplating a successful voyage to a beautiful cruising area. Throughout the trip all systems worked, we were able to check and send email several times daily, had uninterrupted cellphone, sat phone and satellite TV coverage.

Part 2. Cruising the San Juan Islands

Sunday, May 19 – Negotiated a very tricky entrance to Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island. Nice anchorage. Hiked through Lopez Village and to the end of the Island and back through the farmland at the center of the island past vineyards and working farms. The Lopez Islanders always wave. Sometimes it’s just a slight raise of the index finger from the wheel of their car along with a nod. Or they raise two, three or four fingers. The really outgoing types actually move their hand from the wheel and give a full open handed wave with a smile. It reminded me of my boyhood days in Oklahoma when not only would a driver wave, but slow down to keep from splashing a walker with mud or asphyxiating him with dust. It was also a good time to stop to talk about the weather . . . “I heard that they got three-quarters of an inch north of town but we didn’t get a drop at our place.” Great Coconut Shrimp and Fish & Chips at the funky Fisherman Bay Resort.

Monday, May 20 – Decided to slow the pace and spend a second night on the hook at Fisherman Bay.

Tuesday, May 21 – Motored to Blind Bay on Shaw Island. All alone except for a derelict 65-foot wooden boat. Our entertainment was to guess the motives of a gent who tied up next to the junker in a 24-foot cuddy cabin, put on a new registration sticker and pumped hundreds of gallons of water from the bilge with a gasoline engine driven pump connected to a fire hose. I wanted to go over and tell him that it was a lost cause, until I realized that he probably won it in a poker game and might be able to get into boating for a lot less than we spent.

Wednesday, May 22 – Orcas Island, breakfast at anchor in Massacre Bay, lunch and hike at West Sound Marina, dinner on the hook between Victim Island and Double Island-great spot.

Thursday, May 23 – Jones Island State Marine Park dock, watched the Sea Otters dive for dinner, met some friendly native boaters and made Smores around a bonfire.

Friday, May 24 – Back to Roche Harbor Marina to welcome and have dinner with Bill & Rebbie Bates who will make Roche Harbor their home for the next two years aboard Rebozo, an Offshore 48 Pilothouse. Took the short cut by Pearl Island at a minus tide. The depth sounder showed 3.5 feet but we didn’t hear any expensive sounds-won’t do that again.

Saturday, May 25 – At anchor in Roche Harbor.

Sunday, May 26, 2002 – Garrison Bay –negotiated the tricky, narrow and winding Mosquito Pass to Garrison Bay despite a full moon minus 2.5-foot tide and strong currents by carefully plotting a course and letting the computer and autopilot figure out the drift and set. The effort was well rewarded by having several dozen barbequed oysters for lunch and another couple of dozen for a mid-afternoon snack. Didn’t feel like having oysters for dinner so we will keep a bucketful in reserve for tomorrow. Hiked from British Camp to the top of the mountain for a great view of the San Juans, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands in Canada. Site of the British marine garrison during the Pig War between England and the U.S. that was finally resolved peacefully after a 12 year stand off and established the U.S./Canadian Border with the U.S. getting the San Juan Islands.


Part 3. More Cruising in the San Juan Islands

Monday, May 27, 2002 – Roche Harbor Marina – I told Gay that we would go see the Killer Whales today and sure enough just as we were exiting Mosquito Pass into Haro Strait Gay saw a pod of Orcas right in front of us – a very large male and half a dozen females and at least one baby. We were with them for a couple of hours as they fed and frolicked along the coast of San Juan Island. After we got back to the harbor, I spent two hours disassembling the seawater wash down pump because Gay had poor flow when she washed down the anchor and chain. I couldn’t find anything wrong so I put it back together and discovered that the problem was a kinked hose. So much for my troubleshooting expertise.

Tuesday, May 28, 2002 – I boarded the Kenmore Air seaplane 50 feet from our slip at Roche Harbor for a flight to Lake Union in Seattle where I caught the free shuttle bus to SeaTac to connect with a flight to Chicago while Gay stayed aboard Safari. I got to ride in the co-pilot’s seat with a great view of the islands below. We made one on-the-water landing at Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island to pick up another passenger before continuing on to Seattle. What a fun and convenient way get to the airport.

Thursday, May 30, 2002 – returned via NW Seaplanes to Friday Harbor.

Friday, May 31, 2002 – at anchor in Fossil Bay on beautiful Sucia Island. We took the dinghy to visit all of the other bays on Sucia Island and to Matia Island. Lots of sea lions, a few bald eagles but no oysters.

Saturday, June 1, 2002 – Hunter Bay, San Juan Island – quiet anchorage, beautiful day, changed water maker filters and missed a lovely sunset in a frustrating, unsuccessful attempt to restart the water maker.

Sunday, June 2, 2002 – Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes. Busy day, changed fuel filters, lined up a water maker serviceman. Dinner at a restaurant next door to Wyman’s Marina.

Monday, June 3, 2002 – happily started the water maker and cancelled the serviceman after receiving an email tip from fellow Offshore 54 owner Larry Swanson on how to purge air after changing filters. Thanks, Larry. Superior service still exists: West Marine didn’t have a part I needed so an employee called a competitor to locate the part, drove me there and dropped me back at the marina. After another busy day at Cap Sante Marina, we provisioned for the next leg and were in a good mood to welcome landlubbers Bruce and Sally Campbell, long-time friends and neighbors back in Wilton, CT, who arrived from Baltimore.

Tuesday, June 4,2002 – toured Rosario Resort on Orcas Island, got a massage, continued on to West Sound between Victim Is. and Double Is. for the night. With full batteries, full water tanks and a warm evening, there seemed to be no need to run the generator. But the next morning when Sally & Bruce showered in cold water and came up to breakfast with blue lips, I realized that with four people showering and using hot water it is necessary to run the generator a little each evening and again in the morning. I assured them that we were not on a survival mission.

Wednesday, June 5, 2002 – anchored in Roche Harbor; took the dinghy to Garrison Bay for oysters. Gay, Sally & Bruce went ashore to see the outdoor sculpture display but Wyman stayed aboard due to high winds, which eased overnight.

Thursday, June 6, 2002 –gathered more oysters at Reid Harbor, Stuart Is. and hiked to the Turn Point Lighthouse, the northwest most point in the continental US. Stopped along the way to talk to the schoolteacher at the one-room school. She had five students in grades K-8 this past year and expects only three for the coming year, but is nevertheless preparing lesson plans for the possibility that more kids may move to the island over the summer. The “store” operates under the honor system: take any of the handmade note cards or t-shirts and mail a check back at your convenience. “Please close the door to the card rack and lid to the t-shirt trunk to keep out the sun and rain.”

Friday, June 7, 2002 – cleared Canadian Customs at Port Sidney and continued on around the Saanich Peninsula to anchor at Tod Inlet. Along the way as I throttled up to stay well ahead of a ferry moving at 20 knots, a killer whale suddenly surfaced immediately ahead. Fortunately, as we pulled to a stop to avoid a close encounter with the Orca, the ferry changed course. After lunch of barbecued oysters we took the dinghy to Butchart Gardens, the world-renowned 55-acre flower garden.

Saturday, June 8, 2002 – Port Sidney Marina – browsed the bookstores, marine stores and other shops before dinner at The Bistro, a Greek restaurant with one tiny salt and pepper grinder shared by all the patrons and the chef.

Sunday, June 9, 2002 – said sad good-byes to the now seasoned boaters, Sally & Bruce, who ferried to Vancouver. Alone again, Gay and I anchored at Sidney Spit, along with perhaps a hundred local boaters who were taking advantage of a sunny Sunday afternoon at the beach. By the time we hiked the island trail and headed back to Safari, the locals were departing. No more that two or three boats spent the night.

Monday, June 10, 2002 – spent the morning on business phone calls and email waiting for the tide to turn before motoring to an anchorage at Bedwell Harbor, South Pender Island. Sleepy Bedwell Harbor was virtually deserted and unchanged since we last visited in 1995 on the first day of our first charter trip to the Pacific Northwest, except for a sign announcing the soon-to-be-built resort complete with condos, villas, swimming pool, tennis courts, and expanded marina. Better buy now before it’s too late.

Tuesday, June 11, 2002 – back to Port Sidney Marina where we will leave Safari for two weeks while we reluctantly go home to check the mail, make a business trip, attend a wedding, get hair and nails done and wish for our return to possibly the best cruising area in the world.

After one month of cruising we are fully in the groove and ready for more. All systems continue to operate flawlessly while we live in comfort and style.


From the Log of Safari – Part 4

Wednesday, June 12, 2002 – We flew back home for two weeks to attend a wedding, check the mail, get haircuts, tend to business in Tennessee and Texas, see friends, etc. Safari got a good polishing at the Port Sidney Marina while we were gone. Decided that cruising is more fun than being at home.

Wednesday, June 26, 2002 – Arrived back to Sidney with guests.

Thursday, June 27, 2002 – Provisioned in Sidney, anchored in Glenthorne Passage, Prevost Island. Picked oysters and pigged out.

Friday, June 28, 2002 – Such a lovely spot to spend a rainy day, decided to stay another night. Took the dinghy to Ganges on Salt Spring Island, came back in the rain with poor visibility and found Safari thanks to our foresight in taking a handheld GPS along. Found time to pick more oysters, play dominoes and watch a video of Roger Swanson’s voyage by sailboat to Antarctica.

Saturday, June 29, 2002 – anchored at Ganges to visit the bustling Saturday market and continued on to anchor at Montague Harbor, Galiano Is.

Sunday, June 30, 2002 – back to Port Sidney to drop guests at the airport, went to Canada Day Street fair and boat race by 15 boats built in two hours with $60 worth of materials each. Great view from the boat for the fireworks show.

Monday, July 1, 2002 – went to Canada Day parade and took the Bus to Victoria, the beautiful capital city of British Canada. Nice museum.

Tuesday, July 2, 2002 – Genoa Bay, Vancouver Is. Hiked to the top of a mountain for view and picture.

Wednesday, July 3, 2002 – Maple Bay Yacht Club, Vancouver Is. Met Guenther, a fit 74-year-old sailor, who took us to Duncan where he was going to find an impeller for his water pump. He didn’t find the part there, but upon our return I found the exact part including new gaskets left over from Wild Duck and gave it to him.

Thursday, July 4, 2002 – at anchor tied to shore Bahamian style in tiny, charming Pirates Cove, DeCourcy Is. Quiet day with rain off and on. Watched a gray heron patiently standing on a rock staring into the water for hours, before striking out to make a good catch that went down his throat backwards and got caught. After many attempts to wash it down with sips of water, he worked the prey back up to his beak where it struggled to regain freedom before the heron flipped it into the air and finally swallowed the spiny morsel. The next morning as we glided out of the narrow opening to the cove, a raccoon was feasting on oysters. We marveled at the great variety of creatures that share this beautiful planet.

Friday, July 5, 2002 – at anchor in Silva Bay, Gabriola Is. Met Gwen the pie lady delivering pies to the little grocery store-Gay asked her if she was the one who baked the delicious pies we bought eight years ago-she was, so we bought cinnamon buns and two pies, one bumble berry and another blackberry-apple—delicious! Hiked to see the 5000-year-old petroglyphs and 4000-year-old graffiti. Apparently the distinction is who came first. Dinghied to Degnen Bay where we saw new sailboat friends we had met at Maple Bay and brought them back to Safari for pie and ice cream. Found an oyster bonanza.

Saturday, July 6, 2002 – at anchor at Newcastle Is. near Nanaimo, the second largest city, after Victoria, on Vancouver Island. Pretty spot in a semi-urban setting. Had great fish and chips at the Dinghy Dock Pub.

Sunday and Monday, July 7 & 8, 2002 – Refueled and moved to a side tie at the Nanaimo Yacht Club. Took the dinghy to town to explore and shop.

Tuesday, July 9, 2002 – washed the boat and provisioned in preparation for the next set of guests who arrived by floatplane. Picked them up at the plane by dinghy and went directly to Safari. Cruised a couple of hours north to Schooner Marina and Resort where we had the best restaurant meal of the trip. The area looks like Belvedere.

Wednesday, July 10, 2002 – Crossed the Straight of Georgia and went up the Agamemnon Channel where we decided on the fly to stop at the Egmont Public Wharf so that we could hike to see the Sechelt Rapids, the biggest salt-water rapids in North America. The Sechelt Rapids at Skookumchuck Narrows run at 16 knots at each change of tide creating 8-foot overfalls and standing waves and a boiling cauldron of water that can be heard for miles. The Canadian and U.S. national championship kayaking teams were practicing along with a photography crew. As the rapids built to a peak most of the kayakers were afraid, so only a few of the best and bravest pitted their skill against the rapids. They were able to surf on the standing waves for minutes at a time before being caught by the curl and sucked under only to surface far down stream. Obviously, boats can only make a safe passage at slack water during the change of tides.

Thursday, July 11, 2002 – proceeded up Prince of Wales Reach to Malibu Rapids (basically a waterfall that runs in alternate directions) which marks the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet arriving an hour before slack water. After motoring in place for an hour we decided to make our move. Halfway into the dogleg course we could see that there was still whitewater running at over five knots creating a huge whirlpool that threatened to swing the bow around. Too late to change our minds, it took every bit of our 1270 horsepower to make it through. A bit breathless, we entered the inlet surrounded by mile-high mountains that drop almost vertically into the deep water (1,000 feet deep) below. Entering Princess Louisa Inlet is like entering a great cathedral with dozens of beautiful waterfalls flowing everywhere you look. At the head of the box canyon, Chatterbox Falls flowed in full glory from high sheer cliffs. We tied to the government dock and took the dinghy on the four mile trip back to Malibu Rapids where we ran the rapids, now flowing in the opposite direction, and visited Camp Malibu, a Young Life Christian summer camp for teenagers, that overlooks the rapids. On the way back we saw a huge brown bear eating oysters on a small beach. We were able to drift quite close, all the while making sure the engine was running so that we could depart quickly in case he decided on a change of diet. As we pulled away, a bald eagle swooped overhead, but sadly did not pull a salmon out of the water as they normally do in the PR shots.

Friday, July 12, 2002 – anchored at the base of Chatterbox Falls to get some Christmas card photos, motored to the rapids and waited until we were sure we could exit without incident. This time of year with all of the waterfalls at maximum flow, slack water seems to be about an hour later than indicated in the tide tables. Anchored at the Harmony Islands Bahamian style with a line to shore. Found the most delicious oysters yet, a colony of small native oysters, perfect raw on the half shell.

Saturday, July 13 – anchored behind Fox Island in Blind Bay tied to shore – a really neat little spot. As the tide dropped 20 feet, big piles of uncharted rocks began to appear.

Sunday, July 14 – dropped our guests off at Westview Marina near the Powell River airport and continued on to Desolation Sound where we anchored in Squirrel Cove. Passed Lund without incident. (On each of our two charter trips to Desolation Sound we limped into Lund on one engine.)

Monday, July 15, 2002 – timed our departure to transit Hole-in-the-Wall at slack and proceeded to anchor at the Octopus Islands. We hiked to a deserted cabin where for many years cruisers have left wonderful driftwood artwork mementos of their visits. Our contribution, made of kelp, is there for you to see on a future visit. We found a route back to the dinghy on the other side of the island that was marked with orange plastic tape tied to tree branches. The path wound through a dense forest with huge ferns and a mossy carpet, but alas ended in the middle of the island – someone’s idea of a joke – we guessed. Not only were we lost but also the high brambles, undergrowth and vegetation made it difficult to move. Next time we will take the handheld GPS.

From the Log of Safari – Part 5

Tuesday, July 16, 2002 – anchored in Owen Bay in a choice spot near a bald eagle perched on a rock. Startled by loon calls unfamiliar to us except for the movie “On Golden Pond.” Walked through the woods to see the rapids, which were unremarkable, but became spooked by the feeling that we were being watched from the small survivalist shacks and pot gardens in the woods along the path. The few people we met on the path appeared to be Viet Nam draft dodgers who are still high and not interested in contact with the outside world—right out of “Deliverance.”

Wednesday, July 17, 2002 – anchored in Small Inlet, Kanish Bay like an Alpine lake with the sound of a waterfall that we could hear but couldn’t see.

Thursday, July 18, 2002 – came down Discovery Passage from the north to enter Discovery Harbor Marina in Campbell River to provision for the next guests. Time to change the oil in the generators. Ran the small generator to warm the oil while the dipstick was removed, thereby spraying oil all over the rear third of the engine room. After two days of painful cleaning, the engine room looks like new again.

Friday, July 19, 2002 – more boat maintenance and re-provisioning.

Saturday, July 20, 2002 – more guests arrive.

Sunday, July 21, 2002 – departed for Desolation Sound past Cortes Is. up Lewis Channel over the top of West Redonda Island via Deer Passage and Pryce Channel into Waddington Channel to Walsh Cove, one of our favorite anchorages. The water was warm enough for a good swim. Just before sunset one of the most interesting rigs pulled into Walsh Cove to anchor for the night. A homemade tugboat was pushing a barge loaded with a travel trailer and a shipping container with a helicopter on top. Along one side was a patio float complete with outdoor fireplace and patio furniture plus an aluminum fishing boat with an outboard. On the other side was a small landing craft loaded with a personal watercraft and other paraphernalia. After the skipper dropped anchor I took his line ashore to a convenient tree and learned that he and his pretty companion were coming from a logging jobsite with all of their toys. We named it OkieYacht.

Monday, July 22, 2002 – loaded up with oysters and clams before moving on to a choice spot in Prideaux Haven with a great view of snow capped peaks.

Tuesday, July 23, 2002 – anchored in Gorge Harbor, Cortes Island. The water was warm enough, but millions of jellyfish made swimming unappealing.

Wednesday/Thursday, July 24/25, 2002 – dropped our guests back at Campbell River and prepared for more visitors.

Friday, July 26, 2002 – guests arrived but had to delay departure from Campbell River due to gale force winds in Discovery Passage. This gave us time to walk to the Campbell River Museum, well worth the visit if only for the video of the blasting of Ripple Rock in Seymour Narrows in 1958, the largest non-nuclear blast in history. Over the years hundreds of lives and many large and small boats were lost in the rapids at Ripple Rock prior to blasting it to a depth of 40 feet. Even now tidal streams attain 16 knots and the guidebooks say to navigate during the 12-minute slack water.

Saturday, July 27, 2002 – at the dock at Cordero Lodge for Gay’s BIG birthday dinner of Weiner schnitzel. Dinghied to Blind Bay and hiked to an 800 year old cedar tree left by the loggers.

Sunday, July 28, 2002 –departed Cordero at 6:30 a.m. to traverse Greenpoint Rapids and Whirlpool Rapids at near slack enroute to a secluded anchorage in Boughey Bay. The guidebook said that we would see bears, but we didn’t.

Monday, July 29, 2002 – Lagoon Cove for potluck appetizers, all the prawns you can eat, marshmallow roast, singing and storytelling around the fire. If you go, be sure to ask Bill about the problems he had teaching a bear to water ski and about the time a bear bit through his gas pipe.

Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - anchored in spectacular Kwatsi Bay with high sheer cliffs (no satellite TV) and hiked to a picturesque waterfall.

Wednesday, July 31, 2002 – tied to Pierre’s dock in Scott Cove. Pierre cooked a great dinner and Dick won the no-talent talent contest.

From the Log of Safari – Part 6

Thursday, August 1, 2002 – Sullivan Bay, legendary among cruising boaters--with floating homes (one with a helicopter on top, several with float planes), floating restaurant, and one-hole golf course. We lost all of our balls in the water hazard without ever hitting the floating green.

Friday, August 2, 2002 – anchored in Burley Bay and took the dinghy to Nimmo Bay Helicopter Resort ($5,000 per person for four nights or you can have all nine rooms for only $87,000 for four nights) – gourmet chef, helicopter to a glacier for lunch, see the killer whales, fly fish, hot tub by a water fall, all in a spectacular setting. Craig Murray, the owner, gave us a tour and told us how to get Safari past the rocks into their lagoon.

Saturday, August 3, 2002 – took the dinghy through Roaring Hole Rapids to the head of spectacular Nepah Lagoon past the 51st parallel, the northernmost point of our cruise. Anchored all alone in Steamboat Bay where we saw bear tracks but no bears – great spot nevertheless, but not mentioned in the guidebooks. Guest declares that she isn’t leaving Safari until we find bears.

Sunday, August 4, 2002 – Claydon Bay, definitely bear country with tracks on the beach AND a black bear turning over rocks to eat the crabs.

Monday, August 5, 2002 – dinghied around the corner and found the same bear snacking at the beach at low tide and then motored to Greenway Sound, where we hiked up to the beaver dam and later had a fine restaurant meal. Good camaraderie on the dock with boaters that we have met along the way.

Tuesday, August 6 - Our guests for the past eleven days boarded a floatplane for their trip back to civilization. Anchored in beautiful Waddington bay surrounded by many small islets – we’ll come back to this place and spend more time next year. As usual, the place was patrolled by a bald eagle.

Wednesday, August 7 – anchored in Native Cove by Village Island and dinghied to the abandoned Indian village at Mamalilaculla where we saw several ancient totem poles. By the time we got back to the little dock where we had tied the dinghy, Tom, the Indian caretaker/guide/entrepreneur/showman had arrived back from a night of salmon fishing. We were so charmed by him that we decided to change our plans and spend the night. The lagoon was too small for us to anchor but he let us tie to his dock even though our boat took the entire dock. Tom put on his native dress, gave us a guided tour of the village and told stories for hours before cooking dungeoness crab and fresh sockeye salmon on a stick next to a wood fire – best crab and salmon we’ve ever tasted. The next morning as we were pulling away from the dock I asked Tom if he would sell us one of the salmon that he was cleaning. As I maneuvered Safari alongside Tom’s little aluminum fishing boat I missed a great photo op of Gay reaching out to take a 15 pound sockeye salmon from Tom with fish blood dripping from his elbows.

Thursday, August 8, 2002 – after dropping the anchor in a little bight near the entrance to Forward Harbor I picked out a tree for our stern line only to be surprised by a black bear coming out from under the tree. We waited for him to continue eating berries along the shoreline before approaching the tree again.

From the Log of Safari - Part 7

Friday, August 9, 2002 – Good planning got us through Whirlpool Rapids, Greenpoint Rapids and Guillard Rapids and into Big Bay without incident early in the day. Big Bay is a relative beehive of activity with float planes and charter fishing boats coming and going (invariably with their limit of big salmon), boats returning from Alaska, etc. Hiked to a point where we were above the bald eagles diving for salmon in the rapids.

Saturday, August 10, 2002 – Although we couldn’t get space at their dock or dinner reservations, we were able to get lunch reservations at Dent Island (Nordstrom family summer home open to a few paying guests). Tides were such that we were able to traverse the three or four miles to Dent by dinghy from Big Bay at slack, have a wonderful lunch, sit in the sun on their hot tub deck as the flood tide built to a boiling cauldron and return to Big Bay after the peak. While Gay was sunning I decided to mimic some of the hotdog fishing boat jockeys by shooting up the rapids in the dinghy. It was quite a rush on the way up but I had to wait and follow a local fast fishing boat through a safe course on the way down.

Sunday, August 11, 2002 – got a massage, took the dinghy through Arran Rapids looking for bears, and departed Big Bay via Yuculta Rapids to anchor in Forbes Harbor in Homfray Channel Desolation Sound. The guidebooks say that it is too deep to anchor here so we had the place all to ourselves (oops, I spoke too soon; two sailboats are in sight). Billions of oysters.

Monday, August 12, 2002 – this place is just too beautiful for words so we decided to stay another day, dinghied over to a teepee on the far shore where someone had been teaching traditional Indian skills. Through the woods behind the teepee the bubbling brook below a waterfall coming from 6,000-foot peaks was picturesque and had a good swimming hole. We had the nice Canadian sailboat couple over for pre-dinner refreshments.

Tuesday, August 13, 2002 – 48 nautical miles to anchor at Thunder Bay for a good swim in warm water.

Wednesday, August 14, 2002 – on to anchor in Garden Bay in busy Pender Harbor. Picked a couple of gallons of blackberries. Moved to a dock after deciding that I needed to fly home for a business meeting in San Francisco. Luckily we got the last dock space as the harbor filled up due to gale force winds in the Strait of Georgia outside of the harbor. A professional fishing boat capsized killing five of seven family members aboard.

Thursday-Saturday, August 15-17, 2002 – caught a 7 a.m. floatplane to Vancouver for connection to SF. Gay met a local lady on her morning walk and became fast friends. When I returned on Saturday they had us to their bayside home.

Sunday, August 16, 2002 – 41 nautical miles to Snug Harbor on Bowen Is. We marveled at the Northern Lights that filled the sky with beams of light. Perhaps this phenomenon has been occurring every night but up to now we have been going to bed as soon as it gets dark at about 10:00 p.m. Now as we travel farther south and as it is later in the season it gets dark earlier.

Monday-Friday, August 17-24, 2002 – Coal Harbor, downtown Vancouver. Enjoyed all that this world-class city has to offer. Lunch at Royal Vancouver Yacht Club, biked around Stanley Park, saw a three-week old white Beluga whale nursing its mother at the aquarium, great restaurants, changed oil and refueled, saw our old Bristol 38.8 sailboat Wild Duck and owners, Jeff and Beth Hoffman.

Saturday, August 24, 2002 – anchored at Dog Fish Bay behind Kendrick Is., took the dinghy to Silva Bay. Offshore 58 Aurora was out of the water getting a bent prop repaired after hitting a log. Spent the afternoon cleaning shrimp given to us by local shrimpers whose catch was less that the 1500 pounds needed to make a trip to town worthwhile.

Sunday, August 25, 2002 – our last anchorage of the cruise – at Glenthorne Passage, Prevost Is. where we spent two delightful rainy days back in June. Four wonderful months of cruising were coming to an end without a single boat or system malfunction

Monday, August 26, 2002 – after retrieving our dinghy for the last time, the davit motor went out with two feet of cable left to rewind. Gay broke the toilet seat hinge by standing on the toilet to close a porthole. The toilet overflowed after clearing U.S. Customs while awaiting a berth assignment at Roche Harbor. The Vacu-Flush pump wouldn’t shut off. One of the bilge pump float switches shorted out.

Tuesday-Saturday, August 27-31, 2002 – FedEx delivered a new davit motor and toilet seat hinge. All systems operational except for my cell phone, that eventually gave up after a seawater dunking. Enjoyed a mini-Offshore Rendezvous with other Offshore yacht owners and Chris Murray salesman extraordinaire from Offshore West-Newport Beach. With great skill and finesse Chris, Bill Bates and I customized and installed cockpit scupper flaps (hereafter known as the Harris flap) to keep most of the ocean on the outside of the boat on the voyage down the coast.

From the Log of Safari – Part 8 – The conclusion of a successful voyage

Sunday, September 01, 2002 – 6 a.m. departure for the 800 nautical mile transit to San Francisco with Bill Bates (Offshore 48 owner), Chris Murray (Offshore West salesman extraordinaire), Gay and Wyman aboard. Fog in Strait of Juan de Fuca. Rounded Cape Flattery at 2:19 took a left turn down the coast. Light wind, patchy fog, and 4 to 6 foot ground swells.

Monday, September 2, 2002 – Smooth seas, light wind, 3-5 foot swells. Refueled at Newport, Oregon.

Tuesday, September 3, 2002 – More of the same, met two whales heading north and paralleled a pod of six blue whales headed south. Pacific bottlenose dolphins welcomed us to California by playing in our bow wake for about an hour. Their favorite game was to swim under our bow in a group of four until a buddy came racing in from starboard to join the formation while knocking the port dolphin out of action. I tried to reach down from the bow sprit to see if they would jump up to give my hand a kiss but they would just swim on their sides with one eye out of the water to get a better look. When I hung my feet overboard they quickly departed apparently offended by the soles of my feet. Later, off Cape Mendocino, afternoon tea and brie on the fly bridge was interrupted as winds built to gale force (35 to 40 knots) and the seas piled up to 15 feet with large breaking waves. Even with the engines throttled back we surfed down the waves at over 15 knots. We changed course and headed toward the beach 20 miles away to gain some relief. Within two hours the wind eased but the seas remained lumpy and confused for the rest of the trip. Throughout this period of excitement the stabilizers and autopilot held the boat on a steady course. The only casualty was the wireless mouse that took flight and landed lifeless outside the forward stateroom. In addition to paper charts, a backup mouse with tail was pressed into service and the IBM laptop and Raytheon plotter were brought on-line to make sure that we didn’t get lost as darkness fell and we headed into a fog bank near shore.

Wednesday, September 04, 2002 – our schedule of two-hour watches served us well as the crew awoke well rested to a sunrise with clear skies, a normal 15-20 knot breeze and five to seven foot seas. It’s a warm and sunny day as we round Point Reyes and head for the Golden Gate.

For the record, we covered 2721 nautical miles (1600 during the two ocean passages and 1121 in cruising mode). We overnighted in 70 different spots, every one worth a repeat visit – 52 nights in 45 different anchorages, 49 nights at 19 different docks or marinas and six nights at sea. We flew home for two weeks in June and I made two other two-day business trips.

Gay says, “Big seas, big thrills, fantastic boat. And I love my crewmembers.”

Bill Bates remarks, “The graciousness of Gay and Wyman, an excellent boat, a mostly cooperative crew and generally fair weather made for an outstanding safari.”

Awakening from a long morning nap, Chris Murray comments, “Good ship, good trip, great sleep.”

Wyman quips, “This four-month cruise aboard Safari has been a dream come true. I wish we could have shared it with everyone we know.”